Viscose rayon (a regenerated cellulose fiber often marketed as “artificial silk”) began commercial production in Coventry, England. This created the first large-scale, silk-like fiber that could be made in factories rather than grown or harvested. It set the stage for mass-market fabrics with new price points and performance tradeoffs.
Courtaulds’ U.S. affiliate began producing viscose rayon in Pennsylvania, helping establish a domestic supply. U.S. production reduced dependence on imported silk and supported faster growth of rayon in American textiles. This also expanded industrial expertise in chemical spinning and finishing.
Cellophane, a transparent film made from cellulose, was invented and helped popularize cellulose-based industrial materials. While not a clothing fiber, it showed that plant-based cellulose could be chemically processed into new, mass-produced products. This wider “cellulose economy” supported investment and know-how relevant to rayon and acetate.
During World War I, cellulose acetate was produced for use as a nonflammable aircraft “dope” (a coating used to tighten and protect fabric-covered wings). Large wartime contracts pushed acetate chemistry and production capacity forward. After the war, that industrial base became important for shifting acetate into textile fibers.
British Celanese began commercial manufacture of cellulose diacetate fiber, marketed under the Celanese trademark. Acetate offered a different set of properties than rayon—often softer drape and luster, but with different dye behavior—expanding designers’ options. This marked acetate’s move from industrial coatings toward everyday textiles.
In the United States, the fiber previously sold as “artificial silk” was officially renamed “rayon.” A standardized name helped retailers and consumers recognize the product category and supported broader marketing. The change also reflected rayon’s growing role as a mainstream textile rather than a novelty substitute.
Cellulose acetate yarn production began in the United States, marking a major step toward a stable domestic acetate supply. This made acetate more available for American textile manufacturers and fashion markets. It also strengthened the idea that “semi-synthetic” fibers (chemically modified cellulose) could be industrial staples.
By the late 1920s, rayon consumption in the United States surpassed silk. Lower prices and expanding production made rayon a common choice for dresses, linings, and hosiery. This shift showed that factory-made fibers could quickly reorganize fashion supply chains and consumer expectations.
DuPont started producing acetate fiber in the United States, adding major industrial capacity and competition. More producers helped broaden product development, finishing methods, and availability for garment manufacturing. In practice, acetate and rayon often competed and blended, giving makers multiple “silk-like” options.
DuPont chemists synthesized nylon 6,6 (a polyamide), a fully synthetic fiber made from petrochemical-derived building blocks rather than cellulose. Nylon could be made strong, elastic, and relatively resistant to water, creating a new benchmark for performance fibers. This breakthrough opened the door to a rapid shift from semi-synthetics to synthetics in key apparel uses.
After intensive development work, DuPont’s nylon patent was issued and the company publicly moved toward commercialization. Patents and secrecy mattered because scaling nylon required new chemical supply chains and specialized melt-spinning equipment. This step made nylon more than a lab success—it became an industrial product plan.
Nylon was introduced to the public through demonstrations and publicity linked to the 1939 New York World’s Fair. Presenting nylon as a modern material helped consumers understand it as a next-generation textile. The launch also highlighted how chemistry, branding, and fashion retail could work together to build demand.
Nylon stockings went on nationwide sale in the United States, quickly selling in very large volumes. Hosiery was a strategic “first market” because it showcased nylon’s strength and sheerness compared with common alternatives like silk and rayon. The fast adoption showed that consumers would pay for improved performance even when the look was familiar.
After U.S. entry into World War II, nylon output was redirected from consumer goods to military uses such as parachutes, rope, and tire cord. This demonstrated nylon’s strategic value and pushed producers to expand capacity and improve quality control. Civilian scarcity also reshaped clothing habits and repair culture during the war years.
As nylon stockings returned to stores after the war, shortages triggered large crowds and disturbances in multiple U.S. cities. The events showed how strongly synthetic fibers had become tied to everyday fashion expectations and a sense of “normal life.” The pressure also encouraged manufacturers to ramp up production and distribution quickly.
By 1960, rayon, acetate, and nylon were no longer experimental materials—they were widely integrated into mainstream clothing and industrial textiles. Rayon and acetate remained important for drape, sheen, and blends, while nylon set a new standard for strength and durability. Together, these fibers reshaped 20th-century fashion production by linking style choices to industrial chemistry and large-scale manufacturing.
The Synthetic Fiber Revolution: Rayon, Nylon, and Acetate (1910–1960)